India: Goa

Travelling down to Goa we decided to change up our mode of transport and try out the sleeper buses of India. We'd heard pretty good things about them from fellow travellers, and everything seemed promising as we settled into our beds. However the twists, turns and bumps in the road posed a real risk of falling out of the beds and the team of drivers were so loud at the front of the bus it made sleep pretty much impossible. Arriving into Mapusa as three very sleepy wanderers, we were kicked off the bus where we were met with an ambush of taxi drivers offering to take us to our hotel. Even though every inch of us wanted a quick, easy journey to our awaiting beds at the hostel, we decided a local bus would be a a cheaper option so walked just 5 minutes to the bus station. We paid just 15 rupees each for the 45 minute bus journey south to Zostel where we were staying in Candolim. We hopped off the bus and spotted Zostel quite easily as the directions given to us from the website were very easy to follow. We had booked in for just 3 nights - as we checked out we had totalled a massive 21 nights, making us Zostel Goa longest ever guests!

Our first week in Candolim was quite chilled as we basked in the sunshine and enjoyed the warm sea. Most people in the hostel were out partying almost every night, however we decided to give this a miss and explore the wider area of Goa. 

Anjuna Flea Market: Every Wednesday there is a Flea Market in Anjuna which was just 10km away from where we were staying. We priced a taxi thinking it would be a reasonable price and got a massive shock when he wanted to charge us a very English rate for the journey. After stopping and asking a few more taxis it was very clear that the prices in Goa were not like what we had been used to elsewhere in India. So, again we found ourselves packed onto the local bus, which conveniently stops anywhere along the main road. This was much more of a hassle as it meant we had to get one bus back to Mapusa, then change to another bus into Anjuna - anything to save a few pounds! The journey really was worth it, the market was massive selling everything you could ever wish to buy. We bought a few Christmas presents for the family as we were planning to send a surprise parcel home for everyone (you can thank us later :P). Wandering around the market for a few hours we had built up our appetites for dinner. We settled at one of the beach shacks that was playing live music and ordered a mix of pasta and pizza - yummmy! We decided to get a taxi back to our hostel in Candolim as it was getting late as we didn't want the hassle of the bus journey again, I think we paid around 600 rupees for all 3 of us. 

Old Goa: Our next place to explore in Goa was the city of Old Goa which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once a city inhabited by the Portuguese and used as a port for worldwide trading, it is now mostly abandoned serving mainly as a tourist destination for those wishing to visit the numerous churches. The Basilica of Bom Jesus holds the mortal remains of St Francis Xavier which attracts many visitors. We were lucky enough to time our visit when his body is publicly displayed, which only happens once every 10 years! However, this meant that Old Goa was extremely busy making it very difficult to take in the peace of the churches. We soon gave up and found ourselves in Baskin Robbins for an ice-cream treat. 

Panjim: Yet another local bus, this time down south to Panjim, the capital of Goa state. We strategically planned our visit to Panjim on the release date of The Hunger Games: Mockingjay Part 1, as we just couldn't wait another day longer! We visited Panjim numerous times after this, a few times to pop to the post office to mail Christmas presents and a few more trips to the cinema. 

Palolem: We'd heard a lot about Palolem but was always put off by how far away it was on public transport until we realised how cheaply we could hire a car all to ourselves for the entire day! One of the guys who worked at the hostel arranged for a car to be dropped off to us the next morning at 7am ready for us to begin the hour and a half drive to the South. All of us had a turn at driving the beastly Suzuki Swift which took some adjusting to as India isn't known for it's rules and regulations when it comes to the roads (good job we're not nervous drivers!). Once at Palolem, we were immediately greeted with markets and stalls along the seaside which sold unique things we hadn't seen anywhere else yet. Needless to say, it wasn't long before some cheeky purchases were made and some food was consumed. After a good sing along session in the car as we made our way back to Zostel, we all felt really happy that we had made the effort to explore the South of Goa as it was good to see a different part of the state where there was a more relaxed vibe and plenty of friendly faces!

Our second week at Zostel and with the friendship group (from here they will be known as our 'Zostel Family') growing we found ourselves more involved in the parties Goa has to offer. 

It was so exciting getting all dressed up for a night out - putting make up on for the first time in weeks was a real treat and we all felt like we'd made a great effort (compared to the daily jump out of bed and we're ready routine). We met our group of friends in the common room for some drinks before heading out, which soon escalated to around 14 people playing 'Werewolves' and afterwards, 'Ring of Fire'. With everyone in high spirits we jumped in a few taxis and headed to Club Cubana. We had heard very good things about this place and it definitely didn't disappoint. We had to couple up for entry as they give you a cheaper rate (1000 rupees per couple), which included unlimited drinks throughout the night. Walking into the club it was covered with trees and has a kind of secluded jungle feel. It is split up into numerous sections, one chill out area with large beds, one area with a swimming pool, one large bar area and the main indoor club and VIP section. The club is set high up on a mountain which gives the most spectacular views. We all had such a brilliant time chatting and meeting new people and dancing the night away. We loved it so much we found ourselves in Club Cubana twice more. On a Wednesday they have ladies night, which entitles us lovely ladies to free entry (and free unlimited bar, winner!)

Once Club Cubana got a little same-same we decided to give another place a try. So Monday night we heard about a beach party at The Lilliput Cafe and headed there with who was left of the Zostel family - now a mere 6 people. Entrance cost around 400 rupees, however this didn't include any drinks. We chose a table directly on the beach and were chatting away when we noticed the sea getting closer and closer and bar staff ushering people away and removing tables. It wasn't too long until the sea had completely covered the beach and we were forced inside and straight to the dance floor. The music at The Lilliput Cafe was interesting to say the least - a mix of house, electica and drum and bass. We're usually not fussy about music genre but after a few hours it all got a little too intense so we called it a night. 

Here are a few pictures from our time in Goa - 

Off we go on our bus adventures

Basilica of Bom Jesus

Church in Old Goa

Old Goa

Old Goa

Don't mind if we do..

Palolem shops

Our Car for the day

Candolim Beach

Candolim Beach Shacks

Not a bad place for some 'breaky 

Lets go Partyyyy

Copying Bethans hairstyle

Double bun twins!

Club Cubana

Club Cubana (again)

Lilliput Cafe

Good Night?

Morning Hangover Cure

Thanks for an amazing stay Zostel Goa! Now onto Kerela.. 

India: Udaipur

So, we were the original three Happy Wanderers again and with all of India at our feet it was a hard decision where to go next. After a hectic two weeks with our friends, it's fair to say we were exhausted and could do with some chill out time. Reading up on place after place, we decided on Udaipur, Rajasthan which is described as 'The Venice of India' - ideal! We hopped on our 7 hour train journey and settled into our hostel in no time. We stayed in yet another Zostel which had the most amazing views across Lake Pichola. It wasn't long before the peace of the city was ruined by a large family staying at the hostel to celebrate Diwali, all of varying ages from around 4 to 40. They spent all day and night sitting on the roof terrace making so much noise it was unbearable - we were beginning to think that sleeping for more than 4 hours was a crime in India! Luckily the family were only present for the first 2 nights of our stay, which meant we eventually got the rest we so desperately needed. 

Udaipur is like no other place we visited in Rajasthan, it's very much a safe haven for travellers. We had very little hassle from shops and rickshaws, no beggars or street children and the most amazing selection of cute cafes - what more could we ask for! Pretty much all we did during our time in Udaipur was eat, eat, eat... chat to the locals, chill out, then eat some more haha! Anyone who has travelled in India will understand that getting into a conversation with a local can sometimes cause trouble as they are more than likely just trying to sell you something. It starts off as a friendly chat of 'Where do you come from?', 'What is your job?' etc.. but ultimately they are interested in how much money you are going to give them. We get it, they're making a living, but sadly this makes you weary of getting chatting to the next person for fear of letting them down when you genuinely can't buy another pashmina! You'll be happy to know that Udaipur was not like this at all. We chatted to countless people whilst roaming around the shops, all of which were just interested in getting to know a little bit about us and our culture - it was like a breath of fresh air. 

We ate more food and visited more cafes than we care to admit during our stay in Udaipur. The best of which were Millets of Mewar and Lotus Cafe. 

Millets of Mewar: Strives itself on serving healthy vegan foods. The variety on the menu was amazing, all at a decent price. For dinner we ordered pizza, chickpea masala and cookies. We enjoyed so much that we went back for breakfast the next morning where we ordered mixed fruit porridge, nutella pancakes, breakfast burittos and coffee and ice-cream (all of which was claimed to be healthy so we didn't feel too bad!). The atmosphere in the restaurant was what gave Millets its personality - the entire first floor is covered with floor seating and you can get some great views of the lake. The service was a little slow on occasion, but this was understandable considering how busy it got during dinner time. 

Lotus Cafe: Conveniently located in the centre of the town, we stumbled into Lotus Cafe on a whim after looking for somewhere with a decent menu. Once we saw the cheap prices we decided it was worth a try - turns out it was soo yummy we went back a total of 5 times! Every time we were met by the cutest waiter who was happy to accommodate any request we had - swapping salad for baked beans was a Samantha special! Lotus Cafe was located upon a rooftop with views across to the City Palace which looked so beautiful lit up at night time.

After all the delicious food we thought it was time for some culture so we gave Jagdish Temple a visit. This temple is right in the centre of Udaipur so cannot be missed. Walking around the temple itself the detail of the building is so intricate with tiny elephants, people, flowers and patterns carved into the pillars. We stood at the back of the main shrine to watch and listen as women and children chanted and sang to worship Lord Vishnu, it gave the entire place such a magical feel which gave us all goosebumps. 

On our way out of Jagdish Temple we were distracted by really loud music and a crowd of people covered in coloured paint. One man pulled us to the side of the street and requested we follow him shouting "Hurry, you're going to miss it!". Intrigued we followed him through the small streets, into a cafe and out the other side where we were met with the most incredible sight. The entire street filled with people dancing to music so loud we couldn't hear each other speak. We had to insert a video as we couldn't explain the experience in words. We were later told that this was all in celebration of Navratri. A celebration spread over nine nights in worship of the Hindu deity Durga (the goddess of power and energy). 

Next morning we thought some more down time was in order so we entered one of the fancy hotels to use their rooftop pool facilities. It was so lovely to have this little luxury, and for only 300 rupees (£3) each for the whole day! We enjoyed soaking up the sun whilst listening to some music and catching up on writing our journals. 

There are numerous other activities available in Udaipur including a boat tour of Lake Pichola, a visit to the City Palace and Monsoon Palace and a cable car ride up to sunset point. We had every intention of covering all of this whilst in Udaipur but it seemed time just ran away from us and before we knew it, it was time for us to get on the road again. 

Here are our favourite pictures from our time in Udaipur: 

Jagdish Temple

Elephant with love heart! awwwh

Inside was filled with ladies chanting and singing - very magical

Navratri Celebration

The trucks playing music were stopped near the lake for dancing to commence

Food was so good...

...we came back for breakfast! COFFEE AND ICE CREAM!

Buying anklets - can't resist a bargain

Lotus Cafe - Look how cheeeeap!

Sarah cannot contain her excitement for her butter masala 

Pool Day!

Thanks for allowing us to recuperate Udaipur :D 

Happy Wanderers 
♥

India: Jodhpur

We faced our first overnight sleeper train in India for our journey from Agra to Jodhpur in Rajasthan. This was scheduled to take 10 hours, however when we arrived at the train station in Agra we were informed of a 3 hour delay. By this time it was already 8pm so we were not too happy to hear of this. Although there was nothing we could do about it so settled onto the platform and played our favourite game 'how much..?'. This has kept us entertained for hours upon hours during these sorts of times and we were keen to share it with the Spicy Mermaids. It's basically a game where you test how much money it would take for somebody to do something awful. For example, one question was "how much for you to take a bath in henna so you turn orange for a few weeks?", or "how much to shave your head?". We really enjoy this game as it tests how high or low peoples standards are and you get some hilarious responses! After a few hours had passed we noticed the train getting more and more delayed until it finally arrived a massive 7 hours late! We were all so exhausted by this time, I'm pretty sure we were all sleeping before our heads hit the pillow. 

Waking up in Jodhpur we got a pre paid Rickshaw to our hostel. Getting a pre paid taxi service whenever available is sensible as it lowers the chance of getting an inflated price - standard when your a white person in India. We have been told that almost every price you are quoted is at least 50% more than its value. We met one group at the hostel who paid 2,000 rupees (£20) for their journey from the train station, when we paid 80 rupees (80p). It really pays to do some research before heading to a new destination to find out how far away the hotel is from the train/bus station so you know what kind of price you should be paying. Also, barter like hell! If one man wont give you the price you want then there are about 80 others all lined up to take you. Walk away and they usually come running after you with the price you want. 

We stayed for 3 nights at the one and only hostel chain in India - Zostel. We were lucky to have an 8 person room all to ourselves which was ideal! After some home comforts in the form of baked beans on toast we were ready to do some exploring. We were dropped off near the clock tower of Sadar Market, which consisted mainly of textile shops. We got roped into going into one which claimed to serve all the big designer brands such as Kenzo and D&G. They sat us down and proceeded to display all the different types of items we could purchase in store. They showed some amazing blankets/throws and scarves made from cashmere, pashmina and alpaca wool. One of the guys got very into the display, draping the blankets over himself and a friend demonstrating how to get 'cosy' on a winters night, haha! His show worked a treat as our friends bought some souvenirs and gifts for family members.

That evening we got a few drinks, chilled on the balcony of the hostel and listened to music. This was a great opportunity to meet a few others staying at the hostel along with the hostel manager. After a couple of hours and a few too many drinks for some (Sinead crawling onto her top bunk), we were ready for some well deserved rest. 

The next morning we visited Mehrangarh Fort. Inside the fort there are many palaces and one of Rajasthans' best stocked museums. It felt so magical walking around the Fort, the detail in the buildings were exquisite. The palaces were all very lavishly decorated with the most spectacular views across the Blue City of Jodhpur. A guy we met at the hostel recommended we visit Flying Fox for a Zip Lining adventure around the Fort. This cost us around 1,300 rupees  (£13) each for 6 zip lines, lasting a total of one hour. The group felt a little mixed about this experience. If your a total adrenaline junkie then this is quite possibly not scary enough. We didn't dislike the experience we were just expecting something a little more.

Later that afternoon we attended a cooking class at Spice Paradise. We stumbled upon this the night before completely by chance and thought we'd take a look at the different spices on offer. We were met by Rekha, the most grateful, humble lady you could ever wish to meet. Immediately we were welcomed into her family home as if we were old friends and we did not hesitate to book a cooking class with her. Our cooking class cost 1,000 rupees (£10) and lasted 5 hours. We felt this was definitely worth it, we cooked such a variety of dishes including chai masala tea, biriyani, paneer curry, mixed fruit and veg raita, chapatis, garlic naan, sweet paratha and saffron lassis. Rekha also talked to us about each individual spice and its medical purposes and gave us a massive 15 page cook book to take home.

Our day of the cooking class marked the beginning of Diwali - the festival of lights, which is as big as Christmas in Asia! Rekha and her husband Anil could not thank us enough for being their 'lucky charm of the year'. We wish them all the luck for the future, no doubt they will do very well - we will remember their warm welcome and honest faces forever. 

For our last night in Jodhpur we did a home stay outside of the city. We decided this deserved a write up of its own as we did so many activities and had such a brilliant time - keep posted!

Here are a few pictures of our time in Jodhpur: 

First glimpse of Mehrangarh Fort - 400ft above the city

Jodhpur Centre

Jodhpur Centre

The Clock Tower

Deciding on our purchases

Jack jumping on the henna wagon

Mirinda King

Mehrangarh Fort

View across to the Blue City

Palace within the Fort

Young boy singing

Off she goes!

Team Zip Line!

Rekha teaching us all about spices and their medical properties

Ingredients for our Biriyani

YUUUUM! - The silver is for presentation when you have special guests 

Now we're all happy!

Thanks Rekha!

Happy Wanderers 

♥