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Showing posts with label india. Show all posts
Showing posts with label india. Show all posts

Friday, 6 March 2015

India: Bangalore


We finished off our time in India in Bangalore, at a Homestay called Mass Residency, which is run by two brothers, Syed and Shakir, who are the loveliest hosts ever! They couldn't do enough for us, a common trait in Indians and one which we will be ever grateful for. They gave us a whistle stop tour of the city via a map which they had annotated and detailed to help us get the most out of our time there. They even put up a mini Christmas tree so we would feel more at home for Christmas despite not being Christian themselves. So cute. We even got complimentary breakfast of egg on toast and chai, so we were loving life.

There isn't really much to say about Bangalore. It was pretty much just a stop on our way to Chennai where we caught our flight to Kuala Lumpur and onwards. We felt a little bit weird being away from home at Christmas time and since it was the first time for all of us we were expecting to feel a little down so planned to spend Christmas skyping our families and friends back at home. We made a little effort to embrace the Christmas spirit by buying Santa hats, and actually putting some make up on for a change. Haha! The highlight of our christmas, however, came in the form of our DIY Christmas dinner. We decided to search the city for somewhere that did a traditional dinner and eventually found somewhere that did a buffet for £9 which pained us to pay but then again, it was Christmas and if you can't treat yourself at Christmas, when can you, hey? It was ABSOLUTELY worth the money though - definitely the best meal we've ever had. The starter was 16 courses (no lie) and consisted of pretty much every meat you could think of, various indian snacks, and vegetables. As if we weren't full after that, we were then treated to a buffet of literally every food under the sun - endless amounts of it. We kept refilling our plates endlessly until we couldn't eat any more. And then it was time for dessert. Again the options were endless - from jelly and icecream to cake and fruit. Which we of course had multiple servings of until we genuinely resembled Christmas puddings and were close to needing to be rolled out of the restaurant. Success! 

All in all, Christmas wasn't half as bad as we thought it was going to be. We were more depressed about the thought of leaving India if we're honest. Devastated is not the word! Time has gone way too fast for our liking and 3 months definitely is not enough time to satisfy our wanderlust for this country. There is no doubt that we will be back. Hopefully sooner rather than later! We've already started missing the place and we haven't even left yet! See you later India, you've been a dream! 


Christmas Eve retail therapy



Christmas Krispy Kremes 
It's Christmaaaaaaas
Christmas in India does exsist! 
Getting into the Christmas Spirit
Christmas Coffees
Being away from home isn't so bad after all

Christmas Dinner time!
Sooo much ice-cream
And desert :)
Words can't express our sadness leaving India!

Byeeee!
The Happy Wanderers 

India: Kerala

After finally dragging ourselves away from Goa (which was not an easy move) we got on the train to Kochi, our first stop in Kerala. As we were pulling into the final station where we were about to get off it started pouring with rain - something we hadn't yet experienced in India. After weeks of extremely hot weather we were almost ready to embrace what we thought would be the cold, showery South. We were surprised to realise it was ridiculously humid outside despite all of the rain and we felt hotter than ever. Standard India - always full of surprises.

We stayed at Vedanta Wake Up! hostel (and definitely felt like we were cheating on Zostel, whoops!) But the staff were lovely and upon finding a lounge area with movies we soon settled in. As it was pretty late when we arrived we had an early night ready for exploring the next day. After wandering around for a while we decided to take a tuk-tuk tour of Fort Kochi which cost us only 50 rupees (50p) for around 4 hours. We weren't expecting much on the basis of how cheap it was but really really enjoyed the day. First we visited a laundry washing place where the entire city's washing gets done every day by a group of workers. Each had a specific task and there is almost an assembly line of washing, scrubbing, drying, ironing, and folding. It sounds rather dull but it was fascinating to see how clean the clothes became - even better than the clothes we had got washed in a machine. Tiny women were using ridiculously heavy steel irons to iron the clothes which we couldn't even pick up without using two hands - such babies! Next we visited a few temples, and our driver was careful to explain the meaning behind each and which people worshipped there and why. Although this was interesting, our next stop was what made our day. Whilst driving along on the way to a temple we heard lots of children chatting and laughing and our driver told us there was a school nearby. We asked if we could stop, and as soon as we did, the whole school started filing past us in the cutest uniforms ever and started waving and smiling at us. We asked the teachers if we could visit and they were more than excited to have us to do so. They were fascinated by us, telling Sam she looked like Barbie, with her blonde hair and pink clothes, and couldn't stop fawning over Sarah's bunny tattoo which has been a real hit in India! The teachers then asked Sam to tell the children a nursery rhyme - Humpty Dumpty obviously - to which the children applauded ecstatically before reciting their own nursery rhyme back to us in English. It was the cutest thing ever. We took the obligatory cute schoolchildren photos and the teachers then demanded their turn haha! After spending an hour or so at the school we thought we should perhaps let the children get on with their work and had to drag ourselves away! Next we visited the Jewish Town where many Jews used to live years ago, but have unfortunately dispersed. The old synagogue still exists and allows visits so we took a look around that before visiting fan amazing Hindu temple filled with murals which were beyond amazing! They took over the entire walls and ceiling of each room and were so elaborate! We couldn't imagine just how much work had gone into creating them and the attempts at preservation and restoration - they were so good! On our way back we passed loads of young people painting the walls of random buildings and were told by our driver that we had come to Kochi at the best time as they were just about to start celebrating Biennale, a festival celebrating the work of young artists all over India. We stopped to talk to some of the artists who told us that this was a big privilege for them because only certain people are allowed to stage their art and so they have to face a selection process beforehand. We later read in the local newspaper that there was an anonymous artist graffitiing across the city as a means of protest to this on the basis that everyone should have the freedom to express themselves, not just those who have connections to those who are part of the selection process. The last stop on our whistle stop tour were the Chinese fishing nets which were rather underwhelming to be honest.

The next day we decided some retail therapy was in order and (coincidentally, definitely not planned) the largest mall in India happened to be in Kochi. What a surprise. Obviously we couldn't waste the opportunity to shop so took a local bus through the city to get there. When we say the biggest mall in India, we mean huge! Inside there was a cinema, bowling alley, ice rink, rollercoaster, fairground rides, and that was just on one floor. There was an entire floor called the Food Court which speaks for itself and spoke straight to our bellies! Haha! The amount of food available was amazing, from Turkish, to Japanese, to good old western classics such as Pizza Hut and KFC. It really did have everything. We managed to find a hypermarket, which again, doesn't sound that great, but in India, most shops are just small family run businesses and so don't have a lot of stock. But this store was huge and was basically like an Asda or Tesco, selling all the home treats we could imagine. We had to pry ourselves away on countless occasions or we would have spent a fortune. When it came to makeup however, we met our downfall. There was a store called Faces, a Canadian brand which had the cheapest makeup but was still great quality and we decided to treat ourselves to a lipstick each, although stopping there was very difficult. Fortunately many of the other things we almost caved at were out of stock! We decided to end the day by going to the cinema, an absolute bargain at £1! How could we say no? Typical westerners!

The next morning, it was time for us to leave to go to Thekkady. Fortunately for us, our hostel was right next to the bus station so getting a bus was pretty easy! Although a pretty long journey (6 hours) on a local bus, we absolutely loved the journey. The bus took us through the mountains and wound in and out of trees the whole way. As the day passed and the sun started to set we saw some of the most spectacular views. At many points we were higher than the clouds and could see the sun peeking through spreading the most amazing colours across the sky. The Palm trees swaying in the wind as we drove past just made us so appreciative of natural beauty, it was unreal! We finally reached Thekkady quite late at night and again stayed in Vedanta Wake Up! After the long journey, we again were ready for bed! 

The next day we decided to do an elephant ride at the local elephant sanctuary. Sarah was extremely excited because she hadn't ridden an elephant before and when we were told it would only cost 350 rupees for half an hour we were sold. We were slightly apprehensive about how the elephants would be treated and decided we wouldn't do it if we could see that they weren't being looked after properly but when we arrived we could instantly see how happy they were! Each ride lasts half an hour and then the elephant is rested, fed, washed down to keep it cool and then left to play for a while before its next ride. The mahouts were really friendly too, talking to the elephants constantly and never once used any sharp objects to prod the elephant or make it move. Our elephant was card Sadu Lakshmi and was the happiest thing ever! Throughout the ride she was flicking her trunk up into the air and it looked like she was smiling, soooo cute! The trek itself was through some lovely greenery as well so we got the best of both worlds! Afterwards we were allowed to play with the elephants and take photos before leaving Definitely well worth the money! That evening however, we managed to get sucked into a 'magic show' by our hostel manager who told us it was amazing and a sell out every night. It cost 200 rupees so we thought why not? It's impossible to explain how shocking it was. The magic was aimed at an audience with an average age of 4 and was staged in the most cringeworthy way. It was just hilarious. One of those, 'you had to be there' moments but certainly something we won't forget for a while, and not in a good way!

Our time in Thekkady was short as we only had a few days to travel as much of Kerala as possible and the next day we left for Amritapuri. Destination: Amma's Ashram. There are around 3000 permanent residents and many more people who visits for just a few days to get Darshan (a blessing from Amma) and to volunteer and meditate etc. We were only able to stay for one night, again due to time constraints so were unable to take part in the meditation at 5pm or the volunteering which was over by the time we arrived. We were, however, able to observe the practices of those staying at the ashram and we were given priority tickets to see Amma because we only had the one night. Priority in India is not quite the same as priority in the UK, however. We still had to queue for over 3 hours to meet Amma! When we finally arrived at the front of the queue, we knelt down before her and she pulled us in close to her and gave us a hug while blessing us. She then kissed us and gave us some chocolate before we left. It was quite surreal, but we definitely felt quite spiritual in that moment. We then sat and watched as a number of the monks started performing the 1000 names of Amma - a recital which takes over an hour to complete and is performed twice daily! We wish we could have spent more time at Amma's to really get involved but it's an excuse to come back one day, hey?

Our final stop in Kerala was Alleppey, a place we had heard great things about. Everyone we spoke to about Kerala told us that visiting the backwaters is unmissable and we weren't ones to ignore such great reviews! We checked into the Seaside hostel which was really close to the beach, a requirement of sea air to cool down in such a humid place! Although this time we didn't stay at Vedanta Wake Up!, we were told to book our backwaters boat with them because they had a reputable tour. We soon realised why. On our way to the hostel to book the trip we passed sooooo many offices selling their boat tour and it would have been impossible to choose which to go with. Although TripAdvisor is usually great at giving us a clear picture of the best things to do in any given place, the sheer number of tours available meant that even the reviews on TripAdvisor were confusing and not very helpful. The next morning we got up early to head to our boat. We first had to take a communal ferry to the point where we would get our own boat. We were sat behind a group of 4 siblings who were using the boat to get to school. We soon came to realise why. Many of the villages in the surrounding area were only accessible by boat and therefore the ferry was full of a mixture of Indian people just going about their daily lives - hopping on one minute and hopping off at the next 'bus stop' essentially. It seemed so weird to us but it actually worked pretty well. People seemed to know what time the ferry would be arriving and so would queue at the little jettys spaced along the backwaters until it arrived. When we got off the ferry at the point where we were to get our houseboat, we were met with a traditional Keralan breakfast at a local family's home. Unfortunately, it wasn't exactly what we would consider delicious - sweet rice covered in sugar, rice cakes, and curry. For breakfast?!?! Just no. We were the first to hurry into the boat to escape. We had a really cute long tail boat which seated four people, single file, but in the most comfortable cushioned, reclined seats. It didn't take long, while floating along the canals, with our boat driver humming quietly, for us to get sleepy. We were so relaxed! And the views were amazing! There was so much greenery surrounding us, from trees, grass, leaves, flowers, and the water itself. We couldn't stop snapping photos! What made it even more spectacular was seeing how people live their lives along the waters. Some were in the water washing their hair, or clothes, or laundry. Others were fishing for their evening's dinner, and many were just floating along selling things. It's hard to imagine being surrounded by water and not being able to just jump in the car/bus/train to get to where we need to be. It just seems so old school but at the same time pretty intriguing. After a few hours floating along, we stopped again for dinner which was much more satisfying than breakfast and consisted of fish, rice, curry, onions, and poppadoms (and also came with a chai so we were sold!) Again, we ate at the family's house and were entertained by their young daughter Sandra, who sang, performed magic tricks, and just generally kept us hooked with her sassy attitude and humour and fantastic English. The family were so giving, and couldn't stop refilling our plates until we were bursting at the seams. Afterwards we were given their photo album full of pictures with tourists who had visited previously, and postcards of thanks which was a testament to how lovely the family were. Time passes so quickly with them and before we knew it our trip was over and we were taken back to Vedanta where we got a tuk tuk back to our hostel, exhausted. We had a cheek considering we'd been lazing all day but those early mornings are a real killer!!

After a whirlwind stop in Kerala, it's now time to move on to Bangalore for Christmas. We can't believe we only have one more stop in India before we leave for South East Asia for 4 months! Where has the time gone?!

Kochi School Children








Kochi Beach

Sadu Lakshmi - our beautiful elephant 

Having her bath



Alleppey Backwaters

The Happy Wanderers 

Monday, 23 February 2015

India: Mumbai

With our time in India running away from us, we thought we'd better make a start on our Southern adventure. With budget being the main concern for us, we had no other option than to brave a 27 hour train journey from Varanasi to Mumbai, which was a massive 1,634KM, but costing just £6 (god we love you India!). We were really organised and planned for our meals to be delivered directly to us at certain train stations along the way using a company called TravelKhana. This is an amazing website which allows you to enter your travel details from where you view many different menus of local restaurants who will bring you food directly to your seat on the train. So there we were about 8 hours into our train journey and getting close to the train station where we had selected our dinner to be delivered. Bethan with her head hanging out of the window looking for mister food delivery man got a little apprehensive when 10 minutes into the stop we were still missing our meals. Suddenly the train began to pull away from the station and utter devastation set in as we found ourselves with nothing to eat! Luckily we were sharing our cabin with a very helpful Indian man who overheard our conversation and kindly phoned the company to see what was the issue. Apparently they had cancelled our order because we had not provided them with an Indian phone number in which to contact us. He didn't leave us starving though as at the next station he hopped off the train, ran quickly into the food stall there and came back with a thali for each of us, telling us "you are our guest, you cannot go hungry". This was the cutest thing ever! 



So after a pretty good nights sleep and numerous hours of entertaining ourselves on the train we finally arrived into Mumbai! After a 20 minute drive in the worlds coolest taxi we'd arrived at our hostel - Anjali Homestay. We really struggled to find somewhere that was within our budget so went on a recommendation of the previous hostel in Varanasi and booked this place. It's in the suburbs of Mumbai where most of the wealthy residents live, so the area was filled with places to eat and even a direct metro line into the other districts of the city. The owner of the hostel was really friendly, offered us loads of day tours and recommendations of what to do in Mumbai, we even left at the end of our stay with an invitation to his nieces wedding in a few weeks time down in Goa. 

We opted for a tour of Dharavi, one of the biggest slums in the world. When we decided on a slum tour we thought we'd be wading through a dirty dangerous neighbourhood filled with uneducated, unemployed poor people - oh how wrong we were! Photographs inside Dharavi were banned so unfortunately the only ones we can share are the sneaky few we took before entering. We were met at a nearby train station by a group of others from the hostel and our tour guide. Our tour guide introduced himself and told us his story of how he got his first job within the slum, then saw daily tours passing past his workshop and thought this was something he could be interested in doing. So he worked really hard and watched Hollywood movies as a way to learn English and eventually got himself a tour guide job. First, he took us to the working section of the slum which was filled with approximately 5000 business and 15,000 single room factories specialising in textile, pottery, leather and recycling. We were told how the slum makes over $500million  profit per year! The working conditions of some of the factories were awful, with toxic substances filling the air. Next we were taken to the residential section of the slum which is occupied by an estimated 1 million people, of both Hindi and Muslim religion. As the slum is greatly overpopulated sanitation is a major problem with an estimated one toilet per 1,440 residents. As a result the residents have resorted to creating a toileting area, which is basically a mass of open land in which they do their business. We were told how the slum is not necessarily occupied by poorer people, as many richer people choose to 'hide' in the slum to avoid paying for housing and taxes. We also saw that some of the children living in the slum are educated at the most prestigious private schools with very expensive fees. 

After our very intense tour of the slum we decided to catch a taxi into the Colaba area of the city - first stop, Leopold Cafe for lunch. We were shocked to learn that the cafe was one of the first sites to be targeted during the terror attacks of Mumbai in 2008, where bullet holes are still visible on some of the walls. As the cafe is quite famous, the prices were way out our budget so we went looking for somewhere else and luckily enough, just across the street we found a small restaurant serving delicious Indian food for very cheap indeed! Next stop in Colaba was the Gateway of India which was built to commemorate the landing of King George V and Queen Mary. It is referred to as the Gateway of India as in earlier times this would have been the first structure that visitors arriving by boat would have seen. As luck of timing really does seem to be on our side throughout our trip of India, we just to happened to visit the Gateway during a practice run of the upcoming 'Navy Day' celebrations.

The next morning we got into contact with a couple who we met during our stay in Amritsar, who just so happened to live within walking distance of the hostel we were staying. Nishi and Adith were kind enough to invite us into their home for lunch with their family, which we happily accepted. After the most amazing home cooked meal, Nishi showed us an album which contained everything about her and Adith since they met. It was the cutest thing ever, with hundreds of pictures of their vacations together and birthday surprises they had done for one another. It was lovely to see a couple so happy. After chatting away for numerous hours we soon realised our time in Mumbai was coming to an end, so we hurried off to catch our sleeper bus down to Goa. 

Here are a few pictures from our time in Mumbai:


Our first glimpse of Dharavi slum

Gateway of India
Taj Mahal Hotel
Navy Day Celebrations
I'll take this one :P

Sunset at the Gateway of India
Colaba
Colaba
'Women only' carriage on the Metro
Fun times with Nishi
Here we come Goa! 

Happy Wanderers

Friday, 6 February 2015

India: Varanasi

Next stop on our journey around India was Varanasi, probably one of the most chaotic places we've visited yet. We've been pretty excited to see Varanasi for a loooong time, mainly because of its sanctity within the Hindu religion, something which we've been trying our hardest to embrace and educate ourselves in as we've been going along. Varanasi is the spiritual capital of India and is often referred to as "the holy city of India", "the religious capital of India", "the city of Shiva", and "the city of learning" so you can imagine how important it was for us to visit. Many Hindus believe that death at Varanasi brings salvation - if you are cremated in the city and your ashes thrown into the Ganges, you will attain nirvana. This ends the life/death cycle which is preferable to the majority of Hindus because it means all their sins are forgiven and they can finally rest in peace rather than being reborn as something less preferable than a human, or even a human of a lower cast (if possible) in another life. We'll discuss this in more detail in a while.


We stayed at Stops Hostel during our time in the city. We absolutely loved the hostel and felt so at home there we ended up staying an extra two days! When we arrived we were greeted by bright displays of colour, painted walls, chalk boards, random furniture and a general chilled out vibe. The manager explained to us that a number of tours and activities were planned for each day of the week and that we could do a cooking class, a sunrise river boat tour along the Ganges, an evening boat tour to the burning ghats, a market tour, a temple tour, yoga classes, and much more. They even offered massages for a small donation which was very tempting. We stayed in a 16 bed dorm but we also found out that there was the opportunity to sleep in tents on the roof (the cheapest option available) which you would initially think is a bit silly considering there are beds available in dorm rooms with actual mattresses but it was surprising how many people were checking out of the dorm and into the tents at the earliest opportunity - they were fully booked for the entire duration of our stay! The tents were located on the roof and had a really nice area where you could chill out and socialise. Maybe worth a try if you ever visit! Also on the roof were the communal toilet and shower cubicles, each of which were painted in the theme of a particular film, some of which included Doctor Who, Lord of the Rings, Alice in Wonderland, Wizard of Oz, and Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy. It certainly made for some interesting toilet/shower breaks! The hostel also provided free breakfast - the first hostel we've come across that does so which we obviously loved. Every morning there were endless supplies of cornflakes, boiled eggs, toast with butter and jam, coffee, and chai which allowed us to fill our bellies up for the day.

As we arrived pretty late in the day, and weren't yet sure of our whereabouts we asked for some advice on where to eat and were told that Kerala Cafe, about a two minute walk away had some pretty good food. We decided to visit and found the cheapest food yet (around 50p for a huge portion!) VERY spicy but delicious all the same. After our great feed we decided an early night was in order as we had booked a sunrise boat tour of the ghats for the next morning - we were not looking forward to our 4.30am alarms!

Before we knew it we were awoken to the dreaded sound of our alarm. Still pitch black outside, freezing cold and still half asleep we followed our guide on a 5 minute walk from the hostel to the Ganges river. Here we were met by the most friendly young man - Babu, who would be our boat rower for the tour. This boat ride was very chilled, taking a slow pace up the river where we admired the local laundrettes hand-washing bags of laundry from the surrounding houses and hotels. We also got to see many local people having their morning bath in the river (even though it was freezing cold outside!), they do this as they believe it washes away their sins. When the sun rose around 6.30am, we could finally see just how many people were at the ghats waiting to wash in the Ganges and start a new day afresh. On our way back towards the hostel Babu kindly stopped at a small stall selling chai - a bargain at only 5p a cup! We were feeling pretty exhausted after our early start, so after taking full advantage of our all you can eat inclusive breakfast at the hostel we decided that some down time was in order so set up in the chill out space in our dorm room to begin planning our next leg of the adventure. This proved to be a very frustrating task indeed, as every route we planned to take brought us more and more dead ends. After hours upon hours of planning, our hard work had worked up our appetites, which was only going to be fulfilled by McDonalds - thank god for google maps pointing us in the right direction!

The next morning we thought we would have a wander around the streets of the city - what a maze this turned out to be! The streets were so windy and narrow it was impossible to navigate our way around. After aimlessly wandering for a few hours and feeling ourselves getting a little overwhelmed we took refuge in Brown Bread Bakery. We had been warned about the many fake copies of this restaurant but a kind local man reassured us this was the original. We were delighted with our amazing pasta dishes and the bread basket that accompanied it was to die for! After months and months of Asian bread (you'll know what we mean if you've been) it was like a dream come true to taste the freshly baked goods.

That evening we were feeling inspired by the city and eager to learn more about the ghats and the significance of Varanasi city within the Hindu religion so we booked another river boat tour through the hostel, however this time we would have a guide, Anil, to explain everything in a lot more detail. As we travelled up the river Anil first explained about the 'burning ghats'. Manikarnika Ghat is the most well known place for Hindu cremation, carrying out around 200 cremations per day, as they believe that cremation here will bring moksha (emancipation, liberation, release). The price of a cremation here is very expensive and the type of cremation depends on a persons caste. The body burns best using sandalwood, which is the most expensive and so can only be afforded by the richest families. If a cheaper wood is used then the body will burn more slowly, or not completely which is undesirable. The ashes are then collected and thrown into the river. Women are completely banned from attending any cremation at the ghats, as it is believed that women bring too much sorrow to the event. Burning of the body is not to be looked at as a sad event; but rather a new beginning.

Next on the tour we stopped at Dashashwamedh Ghat where every evening five priests perform Ganga Aarti (Agni Pooja) which is a dedication made to Lord Shiva, the Ganga River, the Sun, Fire and whole universe. This is a spiritual ritual which takes place along the entire length of the Ganga river. There were hundreds of boats filled with both tourists and pilgrims who come here daily to worship Lord Shiva. We watched as the priests began the ceremony with large flaming lamps and the chanting of mantra and songs. The crowds in the boats followed this by lighting their own lamps on placing them into the water lighting up the whole river. Our heads almost exploding with new information we decided a good dinner was necessary so we left the boat and went on a mission to find something delicious.

Varanasi really was one of the most inspiring places we've visited so far, we hope the pictures capture the beautiful chaos better than our words... 

Planning our next move
Stops Hostel Wall Art


Babu on the Sunrise Boat Tour







And they say India is third world.. :P







5p Chai 

Cheers! 


Evening Aarti Ceremony




Happy Wanderers