Thailand: Koh Lanta

We got on an 11.30am ferry from Koh Phi Phi to Koh Lanta which took around 2 hours and cost around 400Baht, (£9 per person). The ferry this time wasn't too much of a problem for anyone, the sea was very calm and there were outside seating areas for fresh air. Arriving into Koh Lanta we again had no accommodation booked as all the options we had found online were a little out of our budget. Getting off the ferry we found a tuk-tuk driver who said he knew of a few cheaper places so we hopped in expecting to view a few rooms before finding one that suited us. 

We were pleasantly surprised when we pulled up to our first location The Leaf House Bungalow. It was a small garden area with a few two storey beach shacks surrounding it, with a larger hut used as a social area and numerous smaller undercover seating areas, all within a stones throw of the beach. We all jumped out of the tuk-tuk thinking that this place was going to be well over our budget. The lady said that the only room she had available was a 5 bed dorm room above the social area, and upon showing us we completely fell in love. We negotiated a good price for the room and even got ourselves a free breakfast thrown in. 

We were all feeling pretty excited about having the beach so close, so we got into our swimwear and headed straight there. Rebecca and Sophie being the most excited of us all, literally dumped their stuff and ran into the sea. After about 20 seconds there were a lot screams coming from Rebecca and we all started panicking thinking she had got into some sort of trouble. As fast as she ran into the sea was as fast as she ran out of it again! She comes over to us claiming that she is covered in this horrible slimy stuff, which we later found out to be jellyfish babies! Luckily enough they were too young to sting yet, but from then on nobody wanted to enter the water. Because of this we found that lying on the beach was complete torture as we couldn't enter the sea to cool down. After only an hour or so Bethan and Sarah gave up and walked back to the Bungalow. That night we were delighted to find so many cats living at the hostel. The cutest one was this white and grey one who took a special liking to us and even followed us up the stairs to bed.

The next day we were all feeling like we had had enough of the sunbathing so we headed out to a coffee shop for some food and a few cups of coffee. After an amazing feed we wandered up and down the main road going in and out of a few shops. But, the area in which we were staying didn't really have too much to see so it wasn't long before we found ourselves at the bungalow again. Missing our scuba diving we thought watching Finding Nemo would be a good idea - of which we all enjoyed (even Rebecca)! That evening we headed out for a walk on the beach to check out some of the food places. We settled into one of the restaurants, ordered the same amazing pasta dish and Sarah ordered a pizza which we thoroughly enjoyed. 

After a short 2 night stay we decided that there wasn't really enough to see here, so we decided to move on to Krabi. Sorry for the lack of pictures but we really didn't do too much. 

Beach Time!

Seating Area at the Bungalow

Yummmmyyy!

Our cat friend for a couple of days

The Happy Wanderers

♥

Thailand: Koh Tao

We left on a sleeper bus from Bangkok which took around 9 hours and watched the sunrise as we waited 3 hours for our ferry to leave for Koh Tao. We were treated to a few episodes of Mr Bean while on the boat. Maybe due to a lack of sleep or just poor sea legs but Bethan got very sick on the ferry and spent most of the time locked in the bathrooms. As we were nearing the island we were greeted with the most beautiful landscape - shimmering blue ocean, amazing limestone formations and what looked like a forest of palm trees, a sense of excitement was among us. 

It was a great relief after 2 hours sea crossing to finally be on solid ground again. We exited the port to try and get a ride to Good Dream Hostel at Sairee Beach and were horrified at how much the taxis were charging (around £10 for a 3km drive). But with no other option we hopped into the back of an open top truck for the short ride. We dropped our bags at the hostel and went for a walk to find breakfast. Just a 2 minute walk away was a cafe serving Italian coffee and pancakes - win! Even that wasn't enough to give us the energy for the rest of the morning so we decided to give in to the comfort our beds had to offer and take some rest.

Just a few hours later we couldn't resist the urge to explore any longer so went to check out the beach and the town - our bodies are always telling us how tired we are but our inquisitive nature wont allow us to keep still! We soon settled into a cosy place on the beach front to order some dinner. We all got a range of the delicious Thai food on offer, and Bethan really could not shut up about "THE BEST MASAMAN CURRY EVERRRRR" for at least a week afterwards (yes we did go back numerous times during our stay). At this place we were also treated to a fire dance show. Usually these can get fairly elaborate with many people taking part and complex skills involved. This one was a little more low key as there was only around three men taking part, but we really enjoyed the audience participation. At one point Sarah had a few flaming balls dangled over the top of her head :P - better to ask her for more information. 

Our time in Koh Tao was split between Sairee Beach and Chalok Bay where we attended Ocean Sound Dive School for our PADI Open Water course. We have an entire blog post on this here. So after our final morning of diving, getting our ever so flattering PADI certification photographs and saying our saddened goodbyes, it was time to move back to Sairee Beach for a few days. As previously mentioned the taxi service on the island is extremely expensive so Bethan came up with an, admittedly long winded but genius plan! We were to hire one moped and drive two of us (with backpacks) to Sairee beach where we would hire another moped, both drive back to pick up the other girls and keep doing trips back for fore until everyone and their luggage were safely in Sairee beach again. This plan actually worked out perfectly and Bethan was feeling ever so smug! Feeling confident we hired yet another bike so that all 5 of us could explore the island together.

As the hire of the bikes lasted 24 hours we still had the bikes to explore the next morning so we chose a random point on the map and off we went. Looking back now we should have thanked ourselves lucky that we had explored with no problems the day before and left it at that! The point we chose on the map happened to be up an extremely steep hill, and with our tiny engines and 2 persons per bike we couldn't quite make it. Bethan and Sarah were first up the hill and when Sarah realised the bike was slowing down and unable to make the incline, she thought it a great idea to just jump off. Of course with the bike now having less weight and Bethan full on the accelerator the bike suddenly sped off and Bethan lost control and fell onto the side of the road, falling backwards off the bike and landing directly on top of Sarah. Next was Sam and Sophie sharing a bike, who had a more graceful landing, although falling the bike on the floor. And Rebecca being by herself had no problems whatsoever but decided she should stop to see what all the commotion was about. Believe me it sounds a lot worse than it actually was, nobody was hurt - at least not physically. Our purses were really feeling the pinch the next day when we had to return the bikes, now covered in scratches to hear of a hefty bill we had to pay. Shops on the island of Koh Tao have a really bad reputation of trying to scam tourists into paying for damage that isn't there, or overcharging them for tiny scratches as they claim the bikes have to be in immaculate condition in order for them to be hired again. We knew we were going to have to be charged for the damage on the bikes as there were very clear scratches pretty much everywhere. But, when we were hit with a bill amounting to over £350 we knew our guy was trying to rip us off! After refusing to pay such a hefty price we headed to the police station for advice (the bike rental places ask for your passport as deposit so there is no way you can simple walk away without paying as you would be without your passport). The police were actually quite helpful and headed up to the shop with us to have a talk with the guy and in the end we paid just £50. Apparently this particular shop is well known for this type of scam and the police assured us that he is now on this final warning. It's fair to say things got a little awkward over the next few days as our hotel was directly opposite his shop!

Over the next few days we noticed the island getting more and more busy as people were heading over from the neighbouring island of Ko Phangan after the full moon party. Queueing for over 15 minutes in the local 7/11 shop wasn't our idea of fun so we though it best to head off ahead of the crowds and book our transport to another island, Ko Phi Phi. So for our final day on Koh Tao, Bethan, Sam and Sophie headed out to try a Thai massage. They found a really cute place with the massage beds placed outside on a balcony area overlooking the clear blue sea - it was soooo relaxing. Thai massage is a very love it or hate it kind of thing as they can be a little brutal. We found that if you just relaxed into the experience instead of fighting against it, it made for an amazing massage! After getting our complementary green tea and Bethan getting her hair brushed and restyled by one of the ladies we heading for one final explore of the shops. Feeling super relaxed from the experience Bethan decided that now was as good a time as any to get the nose piercing she has been waiting for ages. We simply called into one of the many tattoo and piercing shops, bargained for the price she wanted (£11) and within a few minutes there was a huge needle through her nose and a shiny silver hoop. 

It's fair to say we had an adventurous time on the island of Koh Tao - scuba diving, moped accidents, police involvement, facial piercings, vomiting incidents, lots of secret snapchat filmings (SAM!). Same again next year? :D

Putting Bethan's amazing plan into action

Still smiling even after the incident!

Sunset on Sairee Beach

Amazing massage location

One final photo before the nose piercing - oh and green tea :)

The Happy Wanderers

♥

Thailand: Pai

After an amazing few days in Chiang Mai, it was time for us to leave and head to Pai which we had heard so much about from various people. After boarding the minibus, it didn't take us long to realise why the journey there came with a warning! The winding roads and cliff edges were enough to make anyone feel ill and with Sophie suffering from travel sickness, she decided to take some medication and was soon as high as a fairy and oblivious to the entire thing. It was hilarious watching her trying to find her mouth while she ate a packet of crisps haha! When we arrived, we instantly fell in love with the look and vibe Pai had. Every little cafe, shop and bar were so unique from the last and the people were all so chilled out, we knew we'd love it there! It was a bit of a mission trying to find our accommodation as the directions we got from online were all wrong, eventually we had to get a local to ring them for more directions then get a taxi! 

Upon arrival, we were stunned at our accommodation because we were expecting so much less for the money we paid. We stayed at Prod-Pai Prachaupmaoh Guesthouse and were given a bungalow on stilts all to ourselves, it was the cutest thing! It was about a 15 minute walk back into the main town which meant that we could sit on the balcony and enjoy the peace and views of the surrounding mountains. The women at reception soon informed us that there would be a weekend market in the main street that night and would taxi us there and back for free of charge, so off we went to explore the goodies Pai had to offer. The market was different from normal Thai markets, it still sold some of the classic purses, elephant printed trousers etc but also sold unique hand-crafted items like dream catchers, jewellery and clothing. We ended up in a cafe which served the best variety of hot drinks and cakes for a good price, how could we ever resist!? The walls were covered by so many flowers, at first sight we thought it was a florist but soon discovered otherwise.

The next day we decided to hire a moped (which we named Phoebe) and head to a few of the local tourist spots. After a few runs up and down Pai's main street, Sophie eventually got the hang of how to ride it and we began the drive to the hot springs in Huai Nam Dang National Park. They were just a short walk from the car park and we were shocked to find that some were so hot, you could actually pay to boil an egg in them, who would do that haha!? We settled for the hottest one we could handle and made ourselves comfy as our bodies soaked in the natural minerals. There were plenty of signs in the park warning tourists not to stay in the water too long because if your body absorbed too much of the minerals, it can make you feel dizzy and unwell so we made sure to sit out for at least 5 minutes before moving down to the next one.

After spending a bit too long relaxing in the springs, it was time to dry off and head to Pai canyon which was only a 10 minute drive away. Some people say the canyon is Pai's answer to the Grand Canyon, it could more accurately be described as narrow red ridges with steep-sided valleys, both filled with pine forests. The steep 50m drop either side and stunning views over the surround countryside are impressive but we had to be extra careful because the path is extremely narrow in some places.

Next stop, Koh Tao to begin our PADI Open Water Scuba Diving course.. EXCITING!

Here are some photos of our time in Pai:

Our home away from home

Outdoor BBQ and seating area

Cute quote at Pai market

Some of the handmade jewellery at the market

The most flowers we've ever seen in one room!

Hot chocolate and cake before bed, perfect!

The fabulous 'Phoebe'!

Arriving at Huai Nam Dang National Park

Cruising to the canyon

The view from the canyon

One of the narrow ridges to walk across

The Happy Wanderers

♥

Myanmar: Inle Lake

*WARNING - This is a long blog post so be sure to have a cup of tea to accompany you!*

After a short stop in Kalaw where Sam and Rebecca booked and began their hike to Inle Lake (blog post coming soon), Sophie and Sarah decided to go on ahead. It was only a short minibus drive (just over an hour). We stayed at the Four Sister Inn which was run by a couple who were really friendly and helpful, breakfast on the balcony was also included that came with amazing views of the surrounding mountains which were always covered by mist in the mornings, it was so beautiful!

On our first day, our main priority was to find somewhere to book a boat tour for the next morning so we could see Inle Lake how it was meant to be seen! It turned out that the couple who ran our hotel had a friend who took tourists on his boat to show them the best parts the lake had to offer. After a brief meeting with the man to discuss what we'd see and where we'd be taken, we finally booked it for around $8 each (USD). During the afternoon, we decided to walk around the town to get some lunch which was swiftly replaced with amazing strawberry milkshakes and home-made brownies at a cute local cafe. We even met a group of English 60 something women who were travelling Myanmar together and had stopped for a cup of tea and cake - how predictable are the British, eh!?

After lunch, we continued our stroll around the town to discover it was just pagoda, after pagoda which we weren't too impressed with as many of them were run down and not well looked after, so we took yet another break in an internet cafe to do some hostel bookings ready for our Northern Thailand adventure in a few days. We also tried to book our bus tickets to take us to the Mae Sai border the day after our boat tour, only to be informed that the land was closed to tourists so the only way we could leave Myanmar was to book a flight to a town called Tachileik ($100 USD!!), then walk a short distance to the land border crossing! We spent hours trying to find a cheaper way to leave but after many dead ends, we gave in and finally booked the flight.

The next morning, we were up at 7am ready to enjoy our breakfast with a view before being collected to start our boat tour of Inle Lake. We rode in the boat for around 45 minutes before we arrived at our first destination, Ywama Village. Nearly all the homes and buildings are constructed on piles driven into the lake bed which means the residents travel around by canoe but there are also numerous bamboo walkways and bridges. Ywama is part of a 5-day rotating market cycle of Inle (the marker appears in different locations on the lake each day). There is no main street or square which makes it quite unique, but it wasn't long before we got sucked into the local market which takes place on the grounds of a pagoda complex. We spent at least an hour eyeing up the hand-crafted jewellery and garments that were being sold along with some delicious looking fruit and vegetables. However, much of the commerce takes place on the water as merchants, their small boats loaded with handicrafts and produce, do business with locals and tourists. We also met some very cute dogs that were wandering around greeting all the tourists with the world's cutest little faces (see pictures below and you'll agree!). The village is also home to a monastery and a stupa, weaving, metal smithing, wood carving and umbrella workshops. There are also many floating gardens where farmers plant crops like tomatoes and cucumbers on floating mats of vegetation anchored in place with bamboo poles.

On the way to the next location, we noticed our boat was gradually slowing down even though we weren't approaching a village or building which concerned us. After about 5 minutes of wondering what was going on, it eventually came to a stop and we were told that we had officially broken down in the middle of the lake in the blazing sun! Thankfully, a passing boatman stopped and let us join the people on his boat so we could complete our tour.. it was quite entertaining trying to pass over the chairs, blankets and our belongings while floating on the water haha!

Next up was a weaving factory that only use cotton produced by cotton spiders, which they weave themselves using old fashioned machinery to make scarves, cardigans, ponchos etc. We were greeted by a young girl who showed us the different machinery and equipment and answered our questions about the garments the women were producing before us. It all seemed so complicated but it was quite peaceful to watch the women work and see pieces being created right in front of us. It wasn't long before we were taken to the gift shop where Sophie decided to buy two scarves, one for herself and one for her mother. Sarah almost bought a poncho for herself but resisted when she realised how little room she had left in her rucksack!

After another short ride along the lake, we arrived at the local boat-builders and cigar makers.. weird combination haha. The lady informed us that an average fisherman boat can take up to 2 months to complete and cost around $600 (USD) which is probably the reason we saw so people with leaky boats and repairing them the cheapest way they could. We quickly popped into the cigar makers afterwards but were greeted by a room full of smoke as some tourists were testing the product before purchasing, we swiftly left after a small coughing fit! Again we were taken to the gift shop where the boatman also crafted some items out of left-over wood such as bowls, magnets, wall hangings, key chains and plates. 

We quickly drove past the Phaung Daw Oo pagoda giving us enough time to quickly snap a few photos of it before being taken to visit the Kayan tribe. In the late 1980's and early 1990's due to conflict with the military regime in Myanmar, many Kayan tribes fled to the Thai border area. According to a 2004 estimate, there are still 130,00 living in various places in Myanmar and Northern Thailand. Women of the Kayan tribes are well known for wearing brass coils that are placed around the neck, appearing the lengthen it. They first start to wear them around five years old then the coil is replaced by a longer one and more turns are added. The weight of the brass pushes the collar bone down and compressed the rib cage which gives the appearance of a stretched neck (the neck is not actually lengthened). There are many different reasons why the women wear these coils, but the tribe we met wore them to resemble to a dragon, which is an important figure in Kayan folklore. To see these women in real life was quite unsettling and made Sarah feel ill to the point where she had to leave and sit outside for a while, it really is a strange sight!

Lastly, we were taken to Nga Phe Kyuang which is a wooden monastery built on stilts on Inle Lake, just north of Ywama village. It's name means the 'Jumping Cat Monastery' because the monks used to train the cats to jump through small hoops, unfortunately they don't do it anymore due to laziness apparently haha! Upon arrival, Sarah felt a lot worse and had to run to the toilets to be ill.. it was at this point that she felt she hit an ultimate new low in life. Being sick.. in a squatter toilet.. in a monastery.. with no shoes on. Come on, that's pretty bad right? Needless to say, we didn't spend much time there as Sarah continued to get worse throughout the day due to sunstroke.

Here are some (many) photos of our time in Inle Lake, enjoy!

The incredible view at breakfast

Sunset view from our hotel balcony

Here we go!

Small rice fields in Ywama village

This cutie was trying to seduce us I think haha!

Ywama local school - assembly time!

Ywama village

Ywama village market

Met this gorgeous puppy strolling around the village, he was so happy!

Sophie attempting to walk along the floating gardens, HELP!

Growing cucumbers in the floating garden

A local leg-rowing fisherman

Of course our boat would break down.. onto the next one!

The local homes

Before the garments are completed..

.. and after! So colourful and pretty :)

The local boat maker

They also sold little trinkets for tourists to buy which were all handmade by the local people

They even sold hand-carved and hand-painted bowls, it was so hard to resist!

Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda

How the locals get around!

An elder member of the Kayan tribe

A younger tribe member not wearing as many coils as the elders

The coils - they were incredibly heavy!

The amount and weight of the coils each girl has to wear at certain ages

Nga Phe Kyuang (Jumping Cat Monastery)

Home time!

The Happy Wanderers

♥